![]() 03/07/2019 at 21:00 • Filed to: lug nuts, wrenching, autoexpert, john cadogan, youtube | ![]() | ![]() |
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Why or why not?
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![]() 03/07/2019 at 22:00 |
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Torque specs are typically given for dry threads, if you put oil, threadlock, or anti-seize on them then you are reducing the friction on the thread and thus your equivalent torque is creating more tension/clamping force. Depending how much, it is more likely to yield or break the bolt.
That said, there are times when it is appropriate - especially under the heads (but not on the threads) of hardware to increase the accuracy of torquing them.
![]() 03/07/2019 at 23:08 |
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Yes, but not the threads. And I don’t live in Australia, and have actually broken lug studs with my factory supplied lug wrench due to rust . Except t hat shit doesn’t happen if you actually rotate your tires per the manufacturer’s schedule. The lubricant on nuts only goes on flat-seat lug nuts, and then only on the interface between the nut and the washer.
The thing about torque specs on lug nuts is its not so much the strength of the stud that is in question as it is everything else going on . In theory, sure, studs can fail if you massively over torque them, but studs are more likely to fail because the nuts are loose and the wheel bouncing around causes the studs to fatigue and eventually shear. This sounds like an argument for overtorquing always, but it’s not.
Most automotive applications use conical lug nuts. Acorn type, with a tapered seat to match the taper in the wheel . It’s a great idea, because it helps to centre the wheel on the lugs. What it also does is apply an outward force on the holes in the wheel. Overtorquing conical lug nuts stretches the hole in the wheels. Most wheels now are aluminum, which isn’t going to be as comfortable with being stretched out that bit extra as the stud. Even a steel wheel, the taper on most lug nuts will redirect a sizeable amount of that massive clamping force you’re creating outwards into the wheel, eroding the taper, pushing it outwards, increasing the stress on the wheel.
What about those flat-seat nuts? I would imagine they’re far less susceptible to damage from overtorquing as conical nuts. A 3/4 or 1-ton truck is looking at torque specs of 150lb-ft. Hell, the last set of flat-seat lug nuts I torqued had a spec of 500 lb-ft. (Before you freak out, GVWR of said vehicle is north of 50,000lbs). But still, the manufacturer designates their spec for a reason, and it's based on a hell of a lot more than some dude pulling numbers out of his ass.
![]() 03/07/2019 at 23:50 |
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Nope. I had never even considered it, honestly. But I don’t lube spark plugs for fear of over-torquing them. I don’t think I’m gonna start lubing the lug nuts for the same reason. Also corrosion is not a big concern here in the PNW.
![]() 03/08/2019 at 01:18 |
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Is this a reference to intercourse? When I was in school intercourse talk would give us a paddling
![]() 03/08/2019 at 06:26 |
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I usually keep that kind of thing to myself.
![]() 03/08/2019 at 09:13 |
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No, but I do liberally apply anti-sei ze to the back of my wheels every time they come off the car. If a little bit happens to get on the studs as I’m putting the wheel on I don’t worry about that. I also use a torque wrench to install lug nuts, and retorque them after 50-100 miles of driving.
On a side note NEVER EVER EVER NEVER EVER use a torque wrench to loosen a nut. He kind of gets a little loose with his rant and implies that he uses a torque wrench to loosen his nuts. Don’t ever do that, it is very bad for the internals of the torque wrench and will screw up its calibration. Bad calibration on a torque wrench leads to broken things or bolts falling off. Always store a torque wrench with the torque set to the lowest setting.